A forgotten gemstone that reigned during the Victorian era comes back into focus
Radiant diamonds, sapphires, and rubies have been among the most coveted gemstones on the planet for nearly a century. But long before their reign, a far less dazzling gem captured the hearts of jewelry lovers — and now it’s making a comeback.
Jet, a flat-black, opaque gemstone derived from wood that has experienced extreme compression over millions of years, was the haute stone throughout the Victorian era, a time when fashion and jewelry deftly signaled a person’s social status, financial wealth and even emotional state. Victorian dress was rife with symbolism and evolved around rigid codes of propriety and caste. Tightly pulled corsets and top hats, to name two ubiquitous items from the era, signified wealth and propriety, while jewels depicting doves hinted to an individual’s deep religious devotion.
Surprisingly lightweight and inky-black, jet is one of the oldest known gemstones, and has been carved and shaped by the artistically inclined since the Neolithic era (7,000-1,7000 B.C.). Both the Romans and Vikings fashioned items with jet, ranging from buttons and rings to tiny sculptures and protective amulets. But it was Queen Victoria who delivered jet to fashion’s highest heights in the mid-1800s. The monarch wore jet often, most notably in the second half of her reign; the gem matched the all-black ensembles she wore exclusively following the death of her husband, Prince Albert. (Jet has been synonymous with mourning dress ever since.)
“Anyone who was anyone was wanting to wear jet in the Victorian era,” said British gemologist Sarah Steele, one of the world’s only jet researchers. “We went around the world looking for sources of jet — to Venezuela, to the north of Spain — and exported it back to the UK.”
Sustained interest in the gem, however, meant the market was slowly flooded with lower-quality jet that chipped and cracked more easily, eroding consumer confidence. Simultaneously, the plastic revolution was accelerating. The popular (and now acutely collectible) jewelry resin Bakelite was invented in 1907, and certain manufacturers even perfected a plastic jet — an effective, if accidental, category killer.
All this led to jet’s popularity plummeting. “Everyone was absolutely sick of mourning, and then the first World War happened, and that was that,” Steele added. “We’re actually lucky the industry survived at all.”
Frequently Asked Questions: Jet Gemstones
Based on the article and historical context, here are five frequently asked questions about this “forgotten” gemstone that is currently seeing a modern revival:
1. What exactly is a Jet gemstone?
Jet is an organic gemstone, much like amber or pearl. It is not a mineral but a high-grade form of lignite coal. It was created millions of years ago when ancient wood (typically from trees related to the modern Monkey Puzzle tree) was swept into bodies of water, buried under deep sediment, and subjected to extreme pressure. This process transformed the wood into a dense, deep-black material that can be carved and polished to a mirror-like shine.
2. Why is Jet so strongly associated with the Victorian Era?
While Jet has been used since the Neolithic era, its popularity peaked during the reign of Queen Victoria. Following the death of her husband, Prince Albert, in 1861, the Queen entered a lifelong period of mourning and wore all-black ensembles. Jet became the only gemstone permitted in the royal court during this time, sparking a massive international fashion trend for “mourning jewelry.”
3. Is Jet heavy to wear, given its dark and solid appearance?
Surprisingly, no. One of Jet’s most unique physical properties is that it is exceptionally lightweight. This made it the ideal material for the large, voluminous jewelry styles of the Victorian era. It allowed people to wear massive, statement-piece earrings and necklaces comfortably, which would have been too heavy if made from glass or other stones.
4. What caused Jet to fall out of fashion for over a century?
Jet’s decline was caused by a “perfect storm” of factors:
The Rise of Plastics: The invention of materials like Bakelite and Vulcanite provided cheaper, mass-produced imitations.
Low-Quality Imports: The market was flooded with inferior jet from other countries that cracked easily, ruining the reputation of the high-quality British “Whitby Jet.”
Changing Attitudes: Following World War I, society grew tired of the rigid “mourning” traditions associated with the stone, and fashion moved toward the colorful Art Deco style.
5. Who is leading the modern comeback of Jet?
The revival is being led by contemporary high-fine jewelry artists like Natasha Wightman. Her work, such as the Ravens collection, moves away from the “mourning” associations and instead focuses on Jet as a sculptural, ancient material. Modern designers are now setting Jet in 18-karat gold, platinum, and diamonds, elevating it back to its original status as a luxury gemstone.